Denim Geek
  • Brand Spotlight
  • May24th

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    ‘Brand’ is probably the wrong word to use but we first read about Mister Freedom in Issue 1 of Inventory Magazine. It is the brain child of Christophe Loiron, owner of the 3200sq ft Hollywood-based retail space of vintage clothing, footwear and accessories from the 1850′s to the present.

    Filled with everything from depression era workwear and Madras haberdashery to Tropical colonial garb and Naval and Military uniforms, the Mister Freedom full line of clothing is a collaboration between this massive inventory of product from throughout the lexicons of clothing history and Japanese manufacturing experts Sugar Cane Co. made in both Japan and the USA.

    ‘Workwear’ and revivalist ‘heritage’ inspired products are understandably associated with quality, durability and unparalleled construction, and these elements are produced in no uncertain terms throughout the Mister Freedom collection.

    You can find more information on Mister Freedom at www.misterfreedom.com.

  • March1st

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    We always enjoy discovering new and exciting brands here at Denim Geek and MQT is no different. A premium menswear brand offering rustic denims and indigo classics, the brand was started two years ago by a few ex-Levi’s designers.

    MQT’s mission is to provide superior jeans to the masses at a decent price and now they’re sold in numerous boutiques across England. All of the cotton is sourced from European mills in places like Italy and Spain and the finishing of each piece is centered on little details such as battered rivets, reversed belt loops and deep-v pockets. MQT jeans are available in six fits (carrot, slim, regular, relaxed, loose, twisted), nine designs and ten finishes.

    OK, so it’s not a huge brand yet. But mixing and matching among designs, fits and finishes provides plenty of selection for men who want their denim a little different. The small size of the brand pays dividends: new designs are quick-to-market and detail can really be focused on. MQT live to make men look good in denim. And ideally, they don’t want that to be six months from now.

    You’d struggle to find the same combination of style and detail at the price. A pair of Levi’s in London would set you back around £125 and MQT can be had from about £90 to about £110. Who knows what you’ll find it for online.

    Check out www.mqtdenim.com for more information.

  • December9th

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    Brooklyn Bandit Jeans

    We’re looking to give the blog an overhaul over the christmas holidays and hopefully add some new features and sections which have been suggested by readers.  The geek is incredibly busy this month with other things but I’m going to try and keep the blog updated as much as possible.  If anyone would like to help me out with the blog and write some articles for us, get in contact.
    Anyway, you know we like to stay ahead of the game when it comes to promising, new denim brands and this one is no different.  Brooklyn Bandit is a recently released mens clothing brand based in New York.  The brand is concentrating on bringing a sophisticated style to urban and street fashion.  Make sure you check out some of their jeans at http://www.karmaloop.com/kazbah-vendor.asp?VendorCode=BKBKB.  Official site is www.brooklynbandit.com.

    We’re looking to give the blog an overhaul over the christmas holidays and hopefully add some new features and sections which have been suggested by readers.  The geek is incredibly busy this month with other things but I’m going to try and keep the blog updated as much as possible.  If anyone would like to help me out with the blog and write some articles for us, get in contact.

    Brooklyn Bandit AW09

    Brooklyn Bandit AW09

    Anyway, you know we like to stay ahead of the game when it comes to promising, new denim brands and this one is no different.  Brooklyn Bandit is a recently released mens clothing brand based in New York.  The company is concentrating on bringing a sophisticated style to urban and street fashion.  Make sure you check out some of their jeans at http://www.karmaloop.com/kazbah-vendor.asp?VendorCode=BKBKB.  Their official site is www.brooklynbandit.com.

  • September29th

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    Denim Brands: Nudie Jeans

    Nudie Jeans was founded by Maria Erixsson in Sweden in 1999 and has developed over the last few years into one of the best known, ‘new’ denim brands on the block.  The company follows unique rules and maintains that a pair of jeans should be more like an old friend, than just an item of clothing.  Like many underground brands, Nudie shy away from glamour and celebrity and simply put, make jeans which look and feel cool.  Over the space of 10 years, Nudie has become one of the leading names on the denim market.

    The company specialise in raw and pre-washed jeans and denim sales make up three-quarters of it’s revenue.  Many products are indigo dyed and should look better the more they are worn, hence the phrase “the naked truth about denim”.  Denim has the ability to age beautifully – formed by its user into a second skin.  The longer a denim garment lives, the more character it has.  Indigo is a living colour that fades and gives the denim its character.  The more you wear your jeans the more beautiful they get.

    Nudie Jeans are produced using top quality materials and processes and the company also stands by ethical production values, with many styles in the collection being made from 100% organic cotton.  The company admit having a passion for denim and their designs go beyond functionality, each pair of  jeans should become part of your dreams and part of your attitude.

    Denim Brands: Nudie Jeans

    Most companies demand a good product and high quality from their suppliers and Nudie Jeans are no different, but the company also believe in taking greater responsibility for their actions.  This includes much more than just good products at the right price. Buyers of Nudie should not only be interested in the quality of the products; but should also care about the work behind the brand and the social and environmental conditions of its production.

    Nudie aim to help toward sustainable, healthy development for people and the environment. The company wants to help improve conditions in the garment industry and still produce quality denim garments at reasonable prices.

    You can check out the official Nudie Jeans website at www.nudiejeans.com or buy online at www.oipolloi.com.

  • September3rd

    2 Comments

    When most people think about Japanese denim, names that spring to mind might be Evisu, Edwin and maybe some European brands such as Nudie and Diesel which use Japanese denim to create their jeans.  However, in the last few years, a few lesser known brands have cropped up and are making a name for themselves in the USA and Europe because of their high grade manufacturing, eye-catching designs and serious style.  For those of you who don’t already know, a few of these brands are often discussed at the Superfuture Denim Forum.

    We here are Denim Geek are huge fans of all things Japanese and thought we’d recommend three of our favourite brands to you guys.  All three are currently available from top notch US denim store, Self Edge.

    1. Dry Bones

    Self Edge x Dry Bones x Superfuture = SEXDBXS09

    Although we’ve mentioned above that newer brands are cropping up.  Dry Bones are a company with over 20 years experience in creating beautiful denim garments and come from the second generation of denim brands worldwide, fitting somewhere between the first big american brands and newer brands from the last 10 years.

    Self Edge x Dry Bones x Superfuture = SEXDBXS09

    Dry Bones is based in Tokyo and is heavily influenced by 1940s and 50s rock n’ roll styles.  The brand was founded by a few Japanese denim geeks who adore rock music.  Their denim lines are stylish and timeless and it really is a wonder why the brand has taken so long to find it’s way into the spotlight.

    2. Skull Jeans by an Alchemist

    Skull 5507xx 6x6

    Skull 5507xx 6x6

    After his first brand, Fabfour, Japanese designer Hiroshi Yamazaki created Skull Jeans by an Alchemist.  This newer brand’s main focus is how to apply their quality denim to their rock inspired designs.  The brand is rather small but creates jeans which are simple, yet beautiful and stylish.  The brand are now becoming known for creating mainly slim and skinny jeans with a modern twist on the cuts and for using top quality, durable denim.  The guys at Skull Jeans will stop at nothing to make their products stand out and you will be noticed rocking a pair of these.

    3. Real Japan Blues

    Real Japan Blues 106BSP - Slim Straight

    Our third recommended brand is this Japan inspired post is Real Japan Blues or RJP for short.  This brand hails from Nagano in central Japan and the company is known to style nerds for their slightly crazy approach to creating even the simplest of garments.  Real Japan Blues used techniques which other brands would not dream of including rope dying and complete pattern hand painting.  Their heavy denims are made from the finest quality cotton from Zimbabwe and tends to look ‘hairy’ indigo look after the first wash.  These jeans will fade like nothing else.

    Real Japan Blues 106BSP - Slim Straight

    All of these amazing Japanese brands and more are available in the USA and online from Self Edge, the high quality denim store based in San Francisco, which should be proud to carry what Denim Geek would regard some of the greatest denim brands in the world.  Check them out at www.selfedge.com.

  • August27th

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    4 Stroke Jeans

    It’s another late post from us, but we thought we’d let you guys know about our new discovery. It’s not every day we find out about an exciting new denim brand.  This week, Denim Geek received an e-mail which persuaded us to check out 3-year old New York based label, 4 Stroke.

    Their new line mirrors the the big apple’s unique lifestyle, edge and boldness and they have created one hell of a captivating collection. The label tries to take inspiration from iconic moments in history and have ended up with some incomparable designs in denim.

    4 Stroke Jeans

    Some of the images we’ve posted are from last seasons collection but the Autumn/Winter 2009 Collection is entitled Invision/Invasion and was inspired by Jeff Koudelka’s book “Invasion68: Prague.” This season, the brand have utilised experimental washes, marbling effects, bleached paint spots and new fits. 4 Stroke have also been nominated by Sportswear International as one of the best denim brands worldwide for 2 years in a row.

    The jeans are made by a vertically operating denim manufacturer which uses technologically advanced laundry facilities in Mexico. The water used to dye 4 Stroke jeans is recycled and treated to remove impurities and the remainder is returned to the land.

    4 Stroke produce all of their pieces in top quality organic denim and focus on minimizing their carbon footprint by making exclusive items locally in New York City.  Check out 4 Stroke at www.4strokejeans.com.

  • August9th

    2 Comments

    edwin3

    Edwin Jeans have grown hugely in popularity over the last few years, with the demand for quality, raw denim on the up.  However, this japanese brand has a rich history dating all the way back to 1947.

    K.K. Tsunemi acted on his passion for denim and jeans by importing them from the USA, as no denim was being made in japan at the time.  Tsunemi needed to mend and clean the dirty, worn fabrics by hand to sell on to his customers.

    edwin2

    In 1951, domestically made denim became available in japan but was of inferior quality and weight than most American denims.  Tsunemi concentrated on developing new styles and fits of jeans concentrating on quality fabrics and washes.  The first Edwin jeans were created in 1961 and took their name from the letters in the word DENIM and flipping the M to a W.  In 1963, Edwin created a pair of jeans from the world’s heaviest ringspun denim. Weighing in at 16oz, the jeans featured the famous rainbow selvedge, which is still used on Edwin jeans today.

    Edwin are responsible for creating some of the more popular styles of washes available today. In the 1970s, to replicate jeans which had been worn from raw, the company created the ‘old wash’.  In the following decade the brand invented ‘stone washing’, which revolutionised the entire denim industry and was a pivotal moment in the evolution of denim manufacturing.  Stone washing has probably, at one point or another, influenced every denim company in existence.

    edwin1

    This brand has came a long way in the last ten years and their popularity is still growing.  Edwin keep on releasing beautiful jeans and collaborations with streetwear brands such as Onitsuka Tiger and MonkeyMajik make the brand even more exciting.

    Today, Edwin follow Tsunemi’s ideas and priorities when it comes to the highest quality of denim fabrics, finishing skill, sewing techniques and fitting patterns.

    You can check out the Edwin Europe website at www.edwin-europe.com.

  • July31st

    1 Comment

    Evisu Japanese Denim

    Few clothing brands are as iconic as Evisu. Their jeans are recognized throughout the world. The brand is known for its use use of quality vintage fabric and labour-rich productions techniques. Although still not as big in the western world as in Japan, this designer jeans brand is popular with fashionistas and celebrities alike.

    The Evisu brand was created by Japanese connoisseur of denim and jeans Hidehiko Yamane, who considered himself a tailor, not a clothing designer. He would travel the world searching for and demanding the best quality fabrics that jeans could be created from, but soon realized that original, quality denim was extremely hard to find.

    Evisu Zippo Lighter

    In 1988, Yamane-san had a breakthrough when he came across an old 1950s American shuttle loom capable of weaving 40 metres of selvedge denim in a single day. Why couldn’t he use this to create quality selvedge jeans for connoisseurs such as himself? In the days that followed, a cult fashion item was born.

    Yamane-san originally named his brand Evis, after the Buddhist god of prosperity. All of his jeans were created from quality American cotton in Osaka, Japan and his own ‘seagull’ logo was painted on each pair. Manufacture though, was laborious and slow and the company was only turning out a dozen pairs of jeans per day.

    In the 1990s, Yamane-san’s luck took a turn for the better. The demand for vintage jeans was on the up and the company had to move production to Italy to cope with demand. It seemed that the combination of Italian manufacture and Japanese denim was exactly what the fashion conscious were looking for and Evisu quickly became one of the most in-demand and influential jean brands in the world.

    Evisu x Grand 1888

    Evisu was one of the first brands to make premium Japanese denim available outside of Japan and is regarded by many to still be one of the best. The jeans are perceived differently in different markets however. In the UK, Evisu Clothing is seen more as a streetwear brand but in Asia, the brand is very popular with collectors. A lot of the jeans that Evisu produce are hand finished, which makes no pair of the jeans exactly the same. The company seems to have done it all since it’s birth 21 years ago. They’ve produced collaborations with Puma and Selfridges, opened a store on Saville Row and even released Evisu fishing and golf ranges.

    Kanji: Evisu Painter

    In the last few years though, competition in vintage denim and jeans has grown viciously, with selvedge denim more readily available and small companies cropping up all over the world. The Evisu brand has perhaps fallen a little out of favour with high-end fashion lovers, but this Japanese icon stays loyal to it’s followers and Evisu lovers around the globe.

    The guys at DenimGeek.com buy their Evisu from www.aphrodite1994.com and www.oki-ni.com.  You can learn more and keep up with the brand at www.evisu.com/blog.

  • July20th

    1 Comment

    PRPS Jeans

    Currently regarded by most people as one of the most expensive brands on the market, PRPS have to use quality fabrics, designs and methods to back up their hefty price tags.  Make no mistake though, that this quality is unquestioned.  By the time any pair of jeans is sold, they’ve travelled most of the globe and the company are proud of the fact that each item is created for a specific purpose with functionality in mind.

    Company founder Donwan Harrell grew up in a logging and hunting family and he appreciated the clothes that were worn to do these jobs.  “Authenticiy is the first priority.”  Before fashion is even considered, the jeans are created with use and wear in mind and take inspiration from the world’s military uniforms, hunting apparel and work attire.  In the pursuit of delivering perfect garments to the most discerning denim enthusiast, no detail is overlooked.

    PRPS use the finest organic cotton from African countries such as Uganda and Zimbabwe, which is selected and inspected by local farmers.  The weather in these countries is ideal for growing the strong, resiliant cotton that the company uses for their products.  The cotton then travels to selected small town denim manufacturers in Japan where it is spun into denim using vintage Levis shuttle looms.  This is a costly process in itself and is a mile away from the mass-production loom denim used by many brands today.  The small batches of purple selvaged fabric though are of much higher quality and no two batches will be the same.  After the denim is spun, the fabric is again shipped, to the USA.  After the fabric is turned into jeans the smaller processes such as washing and aging is undertook.

    Jeans enthusiasts regard the distressing and aging process with the utmost importance. Some of the PRPS styles are put through a very aggressive aging process, and the end results are as natural and authentic as possible.  Every stain, nick and prick or abrasion is painstakingly produced by hand, to replicate real wear and age.

    PRPS continually research and develop their processes.  Maybe taking note of a painter’s stains or observing wrinkles on a mechanic’s knees.  They are constantly trying to produce the perfect pair of jeans.

    You can find more information on PRPS jeans at their website www.prpsgoods.com.  They are also available in the UK at http://www.milanclothing.com/prps.asp.

  • July13th

    4 Comments

    Naked and Famous Denim

    There are so many magazines and websites out there that go crazy when David Beckham steps out in a new sparking pair of True Religion Jeans.  Naked and Famous Denim have built their whole brand around poking fun at how celebrity obsessed society currently is.  A pair of designer jeans you have seen on the red carpet could set you back £300 and may not be as high quality as you might think.

    Based in Montreal, Naked and Famous Denim have been making a name for themselves by using only the rarest, rawest and most unique japanese denim for every single pair of their jeans.  Naked and Famous pride themselves on the fact that their jeans are simple.  No frills, sparkles or hidden surprises, just quality fabrics and quality manufacture.

    The brand currently supply three different fits for men, ‘Skinny Guy’, ‘Slim Guy’ and ‘Weird Guy’ with the latter wielding a slightly tapered leg.  The shear choice of selvage denims is enough to warrant a look at the collection with Naked and Famous offering colours such as indigo, green, black and grey along with organic and vintage styles.

    They have also perfected an original denim which is exclusive to their brand.  Silk Denim fabric is woven with 30% Silk and is much softer than Cotton denim even in a raw state.  I think a pair of Naked and Famous are on the cards when the next pay packet arrives.

    Check out www.nakedandfamousdenim.com for more information and to browse the current collection.